We are already to part 3 of our “How To Lubricate Brakes” Tech Tricks Tuesday posts for October. You can read Part 1 and Part 2 on our Blog.
Step 14
This picture shows a typical cast caliper/pad mounting bracket with a factory installed wrap over pad mounting shim. This design works well but the issue arises when rust, corrosion and the accompanying scale forms between the wrap over shim and the bracket. Even if the coating on the shim holds up and doesn’t allow the shim to rust the bracket will still rust. This becomes a major issue in any area where road salt (including ocean salt water) residue is present.
Step 15
This vehicle had two winters of driving on it. The scale build up moved the shim upward and prevented normal pad (application and release) movement.
Step 16
Replacing the shim is the ideal way to service this condition but if the part is only available as part of an expensive hardware package some may choose to clean the scale, lubricate and reuse the part.
Step 17
Even if new you should lubricate the area that contacts the bracket. Use a sliding brake lubricant and apply without going to extremes.
Step 18
Also lubricate the caliper mounting/pad contact bracket with the same lubricant. In this case, you are using the “brake grease” for corrosion prevention not lubrication.
Step 19
You should have to gently tap the shim into position. If it fits on by just pushing it with your fingers, it doesn’t have the correct amount of indexing or holding pressure on the end taps.
Step 20
When you start brake work and see a system looking like this (note the heavy flaking corrosion on the parts), you can figure you are in for a service experience on a severely rusted brake system. Even if during the original brake reline service everything was lubricated correctly after a few years, the lubricant is gone and rust and corrosion starts.
We will have more of the story brake lubrication next week for Tech Tricks Tuesday.
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