This week we will be covering part 4 to our front brake relining blog post feature for September. You can read part 1 and part 2 and part 3 on our Blog. The next weeks we will specifically cover the disc pad replacement and rotor service portion of our September feature.
Step 25
One way to extend the life of your lathe bits is to clean off the rust ridge that is normally found on the far outer portion of the rotor before you run the lathe bits across this area. The easy way to do this is turn on the lathe and hold a file against this area.
Step 26
Position the bits midway onto the pad contact area of the rotor. Adjust each bit so the bits just make contact with the rotors surface. Zero the adjustable dials to establish a base reference point.
Step 27
After making a scratch cut by the bits contacting the rotor surface, run the bits inward and set the adjustment to remove a predetermined amount of material when you engage the lathe. Always use a vibration band or damper. A conventional edge rubber weighted damper is shown.
Step 28
After a rotor is turned, it should have a non-directional finish put on it. This helps the pads seat in and establishes the correct surface finish (roughness average Ra). Two sanding blocks are shown being used to establish the RA on this rotor.
Step 29
One of the best ways to get the correct Ra on a turned rotor is to use a tool such as the one shown. By using a battery powered drill you remain within the speed range of the effectiveness of the tool.
Step 30
After a rotor is turned, it must be cleaned. Use soap and water along with a stiff scrub brush to clean the rotor then rinse if off with clear water. Dry with a clean rag, or air, and install.
Step 31
The area of a caliper mounting bracket, where the pad ears are installed, must be clean, smooth, and especially rust free. The best way to clean this portion of the caliper bracket is to use a flat file.
We will have more of the story on disc pad replacement and rotor service next week for Tech Tricks Tuesday.
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